Compact Rules

These are not suggestions, nor is this a menu. This is what you are allowed to do to prepare your car. We will not have a drivers vote to let you compete.

GENERAL RULES:

All cars must have a roof sign, Minimum 15” x 15”, Max 24”x 24”, contrasting colors. It may not be positioned in such a way as to strengthen the car. Official’s decision is final.

All bodies must be mounted on stock OEM frames for that year and model of car.

NO painting, undercoating, oiling or greasing of frames. You will not be inspected, you will be loaded.

Driver must wear helmet, seat belt and eye protection at all times

Fuel limit is 10 gallons. Your tank cannot hold more than that amount.

All drivers must attend the drivers meeting

All drivers must pick up trophies and money at the completion of the event, or it will be forfeited. Money will not be mailed.

Hot Roding in the pits will NOT be tolerated, you will be disqualified. Keep it at an idle.

Any questions CALL FIRST, Don’t assume anything. Official Decision is final.

COMPETITION RULES:

Driver must remain in car with helmet, seatbelt and eye protection on until notified by an official that it is safe to exit the vehicle.

Driver door hits are illegal. If the hit is deemed by the official to be careless or intentional, you will be disqualified. If you use your driver’s door as a defense, we will not enforce the rule. If you use the driver’s door repeatedly you will be disqualified.

Any fire in your car or if a door comes open at any time, you will be disqualified. You may return in the consolation heat.

Sandbagging is NOT tolerated and will be strictly enforced. Locking up the brakes prior to a hit for anything other than a driver’s door will be cause for disqualification. The fans pay to see a show, let’s put one on for them!

You must make an AGGRESSIVE HIT every 60 seconds. You will not be given any warnings; you will just be timed out.

You will be given ample time for restarts. We will not use a clock exclusively. We try to work with you if you are hung up. Hitters get more time than sandbaggers.

Any question or controversies will be discussed at the drivers meeting.

CAR BUILDING GUIDELINES

Car Building questions? Call Chad Sterling (785)425-6368 after 5:00pm

GENERAL PREPARATION

All glass, plastic and pot metal must be removed.

Nothing may remain in the bottoms of the trunk or doors.

All outer hardware must be removed – door handles, mirrors, chrome, moldings, screws, fiberglass ect.

NO added weight to any car.

Rear seats in cars and all decking in station wagons must be removed.

Front seats must be securely bolted to the floor; bolts may not go thru the frame.

You must have a functioning seat belt.

All flammable materials must be removed from the car other than safety padding and drivers seat.

No sedagons or wedged cars.

COMPACT PREPERATION:

Any make of car with an OEM 4 cylinder engine has unlimited wheel base.

Any make of car with a 6 cylinder engine can be no more than 105” wheel base.

NO pickups, minivans, convertibles, SUV’s, taxis or custom built vehicles (dune buggies, sand rails ect.) will be allowed.

You may weld the door’s solid. You may also weld the seat and dash bars to the body sheet metal.

You may have one door bar on each side running between the dash and seat bars.

You may add 4 VERTICAL down bars, 2 on each side of the car welded from the cage components the floor sheet metal but they may NOT attach to or conceal a body mount.

Must have at least one bar, chain or wire running from the roof to the cowl in the windshield area for driver protection, can be welded in place.

You may weld the trunk lid 6” on 6” off 3” X ¼” max.

Sheet metal seam welding allowed.

Other than the above and the bumpers nothing else can be welded.

Hoods may be bolted, wired or chained shut only.

If you use chain or wire you may weld up to 5” washers to the hood. If bolting the 5” washers must be free floating.

You may use 6 bolts to hold the hood 1”max.

Maximum of 3 hood cut outs allowed. Cutouts may be for header clearance, air cleaner or radiator fill opening.

If not welded doors and trunk can be #9 wired or chained shut, minimum 2 place maximum 4 places each. Chain can be no bigger than 3/8” X 1 foot long each piece. Wire can be double looped 2 foot long maximum.

NO paddle tires on driver wheels.

You must have tubing or plate on the driver’s door for safety. You may weld a plate or tube Max. 6” X ¼” across the drivers doors for protection, not to exceed 6” beyond the front door seams. NO GRADER BLADES. The plates must be in center of the door and run horizontally.

Cars must remain completely stock.

BUMPERS, BUMPER BRACKETS:

Bumpers are interchangeable, Any automotive bumper or bracket may be used on any car.

You may weld the bumper seams, the shocks and weld the brackets to the frame. You may NOT weld further than 4” behind the radiator support when mounting your front bumper brackets on any car.

If you choose not to use brackets you may weld the bumper directly to the frame.

You may weld the outer chrome skin to the bumper inner frame.

You may NOT weld the bumper to the body at any time.

Bumpers may be cut to keep them out of the tires.

Bumpers may be flipped upside down.

Compression bumper shocks may be drained, slid back and welded solid.

All bumper brackets and shock components must be OEM automotive materials.

You may run 4 loops of #9 wire from the radiator support to the bumper in 2 locations.

You may weld a 4” X 12” X ¼” strap from the bumper to the frame to help keep the bumper on the car. This must remain in one piece, and may be welded on the top; bottom or side of the frame but it cannot be angled to the corner of the bumper to form a kicker. 12” is the maximum length.

Do NOT add metal to your bumper.

INSPECTION PROCEDURES:

You will be given (1) opportunity to correct items on your car.

Each car gets a maximum of 2 times thru inspection.

Cars will be impounded after inspection and staged in a secure location.

You must be completely ready to bolt hood down after inspection and then put your car in staging.

NO further work will be allowed and cars will NOT be allowed to go back to their trailers.

Do NOT come to the inspection if you are not done preparing your car.

PRE-FEATURE-CONSOLATION CAR PREP:

You may add 4 strands of wire (2 loops) in 4 locations of your choice prior to consi or feature.

Leaf springs may NOT be replaced but you may wire or taped before consi or feature.

NO replacing of sheet metal components prior to consi or feature.

NO added metal to frame any place prior to consi or feature.

½ & ¾ TON PICKUP RULES

These are not suggestions, nor are this a menu. This is what you are allowed to do when preparing your car. We will not have a drivers vote to let you compete.

GENERAL RULES:

All cars must have a roof sign, Minimum 15” x 15”, Max 24”x 24”, contrasting colors. It may not be positioned in such a way as to strengthen the car. Official’s decision is final.

NO painting, undercoating, oiling or greasing of frames. You will not be inspected, you will be loaded.

Driver must wear helmet, seat belt and eye protection at all times

Fuel limit is 10 gallons. Your tank cannot hold more than that amount.

All drivers must attend the drivers meeting

All drivers must pick up trophies and money at the completion of the event, or it will be forfeited. Money will not be mailed.

Hot Roding in the pits will NOT be tolerated, you will be disqualified. Keep it at an idle.

Any questions CALL FIRST, Don’t assume anything. Official Decision is final.

COMPETITION RULES:

Driver must remain in car with helmet, seatbelt and eye protection on until notified by an official that it is safe to exit the vehicle.

Driver door hits are illegal. If the hit is deemed by the official to be careless or intentional, you will be disqualified. If you use your driver’s door as a defense, we will not enforce the rule.

Any fire in your car or if a door comes open at any time, you will be disqualified. You may return in the consolation heat.

Sandbagging is NOT tolerated and will be strictly enforced. The fans pay to see a show, let’s put one on for them!

You must make an AGGRESSIVE HIT every 60 seconds. You will not be given any warnings; you will just be timed out.

You will be given ample time for restarts. We will not use a clock exclusively. We try to work with you if you are hung up. Hitters get more time than sandbaggers.

Any question or controversies will be discussed at the drivers meeting.

CAR BUILDING GUIDELINES

Car Building questions? Call Dean Kester (785)425-8432.

Pickups:

GENERAL PREPARATION

All glass, plastic and pot metal must be removed.

Nothing may remain in the bead or bottoms of the doors.

All outer hardware must be removed – door handles, mirrors, chrome, moldings, screws, fiberglass ect.

NO added weight.

Front seats must be securely bolted to the floor; bolts may not go thru the frame.

You must have a functioning seat belt.

All flammable materials must be removed from the car other than safety padding and drivers seat.

CAGES:

You may have 2 side or Horizontal bars, channel or tubing up to 6”

2 cross bars allowed dash and seat, NOT to exceed 5”. Seat bar must be No further than 6” behind the seat. Bars must be min. 10” from the floor and no higher than the bottom of side windows.

You may add 4 VERTICAL down bars, 2 on each side of the car welded from the cage components the floor sheet metal but they may NOT attach to or conceal a body mount.

NO kickers, angled or otherwise. NO cage components may be welded to the frame.

All cage components must be in the interior of the car, not inside the door structure with the exception of the driver’s side. Driver’s side door bar may be inside the door to allow more room for driver safety.

HOODS:

NO hood handles

Hoods may be bolted, wired or chained shut only.

You may use 6 hood fasteners (hinges count as 2) to hold the hood 1”max.

The 2 front bolts may go thru the frame, Not welded to the frame. The other 4 must be sheet metal to sheet metal .

If you use chain or wire you may weld up to 5” washers to the hood. If bolting the 5” washers must be free floating.

Maximum of 3 hood cut outs allowed. Cutouts may be for header clearance, air cleaner or radiator fill opening.

You may install up to 16-3/8” bolts or self tapping screws for hood cutouts. Maximum 1” diameter washer size.

NO welding of hood cut outs allowed!

DOORS:

Doors may be welded 6” on 6” off max 3” X ¼” strap max. You may also use rod to fill the gaps in place of strap, you may NOT do both.

You may smash the inner and outer door skin together and weld them solid, NO added metal.

If you do not weld your doors shut you must chain or #9 wire them closed in at least 2 spots. Doors may not be bolted shut.

Driver’s door may have window netting for driver’s safety. NO other windows may have netting.

You may weld a plate or tube Max. 6” X ¼” across the driver’s door for protection, not to exceed 6” beyond the front door seams. NO GRADER BLADES. These plates must be in center of the door and run horizontally.

WINDOWS:

You must have a minimum of 1 bar, chain or wire running from the roof to the cowl in the windshield area for driver safety. This may not be designed as to reinforce the car.

OTHER BODY:

MINIMAL body creasing, enhancing of existing body lines and addition of body lines will be allowed. Folding the body metal over to create a double effect is NOT allowed.

NO doubling of body panels or added metal allowed.

Tailgate must be in the Stock location, may be welded 6” on 6” off max 3” X ¼” strap max. You may also use rod to fill the gaps in place of strap, you may NOT do both.

Seam welding of the Front Clip area allowed. From firewall forward Body to Body, NOT to frame. Plastic fender wells must be removed.

Floor sheet metal may be patched where components will be mounted or for drivers safety, Sheet metal ONLY. NO other sheet metal patching is allowed unless it is a safety issue. If not sure call first.

Holes may be cut in the floor & firewall to accommodate the shifter, fuel lines and transmission line. 

You may have up to 10 3/8” bolts in each wheel opening. They may not be higher than 5” above the stock lip location of the wheel opening.

BODY BOLTS:

Any body bolt may be replaced with up to ¾” bolts. Maximum 8” long.

Core support bolts may be 1” diameter. Core support bolts may go thru the hood and count as 2 of your 6 hood supports.

Washers must be free floating inside the car and INSIDE the frame on the bottom side.

Do NOT weld the body washers to the floor. Maximum washer size is 5” diameter X 3/16” thick.

Rubber body mounts may be removed but must be replaced with ¾” thick X 3” max spacer.      Body may NOT be welded to the frame. Must maintain 3/4” space between body and frame.

You MUST add two ¾ inch bolts running through the back of the cab into the front of the bed. One located above each frame rail and in the centerline of the bed up and down. May use max 5” x 3/16” washers.

ENGINES:

Any motor may be used in any pickup but it must be mounted within 3” of original location.

You may chain the motor but you must use existing bolt hole.

You may weld in additional supports to the engine cradle area but they may not be attached to the frame rails at any point. This may only be for the purpose of holding the engine in place.

NO engine oil coolers allowed.

You must have an air cleaner over the carburetor at all times.

NO starting fluids allowed.

TRANSMISSION:

Transmission must be of passenger car or pickup origin. Transmission coolers may be used but they must be secured in such a way to prevent injury.

Metal or braided lines must be used, crimp on fittings recommended. NO low pressure or fuel line allowed.

Coolers must be secured in a container in the passenger compartment of the car.

REAR ENDS:

Rear end must be of passenger car or pickup origin.

You may use any type of rear end (Ford, Mopar, and GM)

Rear end braces are allowed.

Brake backing plates must be OEM, NO reinforcement.

RADIATORS, RADIATOR SUPPORTS:

Radiator must be in the stock position in the front of the motor.

Radiator support must remain in the stock location.

You may weld a brace across the top of radiator support no wider than frame rails, and 2 braces welded down to the frame. All bracing must be in front of A-arm, 2 inch max X ¼ inch thick.

OEM style radiators only, NO home made tube construction radiators.

NO added cooling capacity or supplemental cooling devices allowed.

FUEL, FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEMS:

NO plastic gas tanks allowed. Metal tanks or fuel cells only.

Only 10 gallon capacity tanks allowed

Original gas tank must be removed from the car.

You must mount the gas tank securely and it must be covered.

Fuel lines must run inside the car NOT under the car along the frame.

Fuel lines must be secured to the floor and kept from pinch points.

Automotive pump gas only, NO ALCOHOL.

Electric fuel pumps are allowed. They must be covered and have an on/off switch near the steering wheel and be clearly marked in large letters.

All lines must be double clamped.

TIRES & BRAKES:

NO split rims, studded tired, paddle tires (on drive wheels) or 100% steel wheels.

Valve stem protectors allowed. Wheel weights must be removed.

Double or foam filled tires allowed.

All cars must be able to demonstrate the ability to stop at any time. If your brakes do not work, you will not compete.

BATTERIES:

A maximum of Two 12 volt batteries may be used.

They must be secured inside the car in the front passenger seat and covered.

FRAMES:  

½ and ¾ ton 2 wheel drive allowed.

Bumper strap to frame welding is covered in the bumper section.

NO frame welding is allowed. No plating, stuffing, heat treating or foam filling of frames is allowed. DO NOT paint or undercoat your frame you will not even be inspected.

You may weld your motor mounts to the motor cradle. Aftermarket motor mounts allowed.

Rear frame rails may not be shortened.

You may use a 5” long piece of angle welded to the frame to set the cross member on if

you like.

BUMPERS, BUMPER BRACKETS:

Bumpers are interchangeable. Any automotive bumper or bracket may be used on any pickup.

You may weld the bumper seams, the shocks and weld the brackets to the frame. You may NOT weld further than 4” behind the radiator support when mounting your front bumper brackets on any pickup.

You may weld a 4” X 12” X ¼” strap from the bumper to the frame to help keep the bumper on the car. This must remain in one piece, and may be welded on the top; bottom or side of the frame but it cannot be angled to the corner of the bumper to form a kicker. 12” is the maximum length.

If you choose not to use brackets you may weld the bumper directly to the frame.

You may weld the outer chrome skin to the bumper inner frame.

You may NOT weld the bumper to the body at any time.

Bumpers may be cut to keep them out of the tires.

Bumpers may be flipped upside down.

Compression bumper shocks may be drained, slid back and welded solid.

All bumper brackets and shock components must be OEM automotive materials.

You may run 4 loops of #9 wire from the radiator support to the bumper in 2 locations.

Front bumpers may be reinforced. Reinforcement must be contained within the original bumper and skin. Reinforcement may be no wider than the frame rails.

No bumper may have more than 12 inches from the back side mounting area to the front side point.

Old Iron car bumpers may NOT be reinforced:

SUSPENSION SPRINGS:

Leaf springs must be in factory position.

You may change coil springs.

You may NOT remove the shocks and put pipe or all thread in their place.

Air shock lines must be cut.

NO means other than tires and coil spring spacers may be used to raise the cars suspension.

Both ends of the pickup must have a working suspension and bounce.

NO solid suspensions allowed.

You may reinforce your tie rods, but you must start with an OEM tie rod. Inspector must be able to see the rod ends and the adjusting threads.

NO pipe and heim end tie rods.

Steering wheel to steering gearbox may be modified.

After market steering columns allowed.

LEAF SPRINGS:

Stock sized leaf springs only, 9 leaves maximum.

5 clamps allowed per spring, 2 front of axel, 3 behind the axel.

Clamp material ¼” thick, 2” wide, two 5/16” bolts per clamp.

Stock diameter U-bolts and stock mounting plates must be used.

NO home made mounting plates or oversized U-bolts will be allowed.

NO welding on the spring pack.

NO duct taping of springs prior to inspection.

INSPECTION PROCEDURES:

You will be given (1) opportunity to correct items on your truck.

Each truck gets a maximum of 2 times thru inspection.

Cars will be impounded after inspection and staged in a secure location.

You must be completely ready to bolt hood down after inspection and put your car in staging.

NO further work will be allowed and cars will NOT be allowed to go back to their trailers.

Do NOT come to the inspection if you are not done preparing your car.

 

  80's and Newer Rules:

These are not suggestions, nor are this a menu. This is what you are allowed to do when preparing your car. We will not have a drivers vote to let you compete .

GENERAL RULES:

All cars must have a roof sign, Minimum 15” x 15”, Max 24”x 24”, contrasting colors. It may not be positioned in such a way as to strengthen the car. Official’s decision is final.

NO Imperials, any year, Imperial sub frames, Ambulances, Hearses or Limousines allowed.

NO cars newer than 2002

Re-stubbing allowed but it has to be make for make. NO Cadillac on Chevy ECT.

All bodies must be mounted on stock OEM frames for that year and model of car.

NO painting, undercoating, oiling or greasing of frames. You will not be inspected, you will be loaded.

Driver must wear helmet, seat belt and eye protection at all times

Fuel limit is 10 gallons. Your tank cannot hold more than that amount.

All drivers must attend the drivers meeting

All drivers must pick up trophies and money at the completion of the event, or it will be forfeited. Money will not be mailed.

Hot Roding in the pits will NOT be tolerated, you will be disqualified. Keep it at an idle.

Any questions CALL FIRST, Don’t assume anything. Official Decision is final.

COMPETITION RULES:

Driver must remain in car with helmet, seatbelt and eye protection on until notified by an official that it is safe to exit the vehicle.

Driver door hits are illegal. If the hit is deemed by the official to be careless or intentional, you will be disqualified. If you use your driver’s door as a defense, we will not enforce the rule.

Any fire in your car or if a door comes open at any time, you will be disqualified. You may return in the consolation heat.

Sandbagging is NOT tolerated and will be strictly enforced. The fans pay to see a show, let’s put one on for them!  

You must make an AGGRESSIVE HIT every 60 seconds. You will not be given any warnings; you will just be timed out.

You will be given ample time for restarts. We will not use a clock exclusively. We try to work with you if you are hung up. Hitters get more time than sandbaggers.

Any question or controversies will be discussed at the drivers meeting.

CAR BUILDING GUIDELINES

Car Building questions? Call Dean Kester (785)425-8432

80 & Newer:

GENERAL PREPARATION

All glass, plastic and pot metal must be removed.

Nothing may remain in the bottoms of the trunk or doors.

All outer hardware must be removed – door handles, mirrors, chrome, moldings, screws, fiberglass ECT.

NO added weight to any car.

Rear seats in cars and all decking in station wagons must be removed.

Front seats must be securely bolted to the floor; bolts may not go thru the frame.

You must have a functioning seat belt.

All flammable materials must be removed from the car other than safety padding and drivers seat.

No sedagons or wedged cars.

CAGES & DOOR BARS:

You may have 2 side or Horizontal bars, channel or tubing up to 6”.

3 cross bars allowed NOT to exceed 5”.      No curved dash bar must be min of 6” from center of dash. Seat bar must be No further than 6” behind the seat. Rear bar may attach to the front side of the rear inner fender wells. Bars must be min. 10” from the floor and no higher than the bottom of side windows.

You may run a fuel cell protector in the place of the 3^rd bar, NOT BOTH. It may be no closer than 1 ½” to the rear sheet metal and be minimum of 10 inches from the floor.

You may add 4 VERTICAL down bars, 2 on each side of the car welded from the cage components the floor sheet metal but they may NOT attach to or conceal a body mount.

You may add a diagonal bar behind the drivers seat and directly below the seat bar running from seat bar to floor sheet metal.

NO kickers, angled or otherwise. NO cage components may be welded to the frame.

All cage components must be in the interior of the car, not inside the door structure with the exception of the driver’s side. Driver’s side door bar may be inside the door to allow more room for driver safety.

HALO OR ROLLOVER BARS:

You may add a halo bar to the cage components listed above. It may also not exceed 5” in diameter.

Halo bar may attach to the floor sheet metal, NOT the frame, must be mounted within 12 inches of the seat.

Halo bar may not be angled towards the rear of the car, they must be vertical.

You may bolt the halo bar to the roof sheet metal in 2 places.

Official’s decision on cage is final.

TRUNK LID:

Trunk lids must remain 50% in the stock location and remain attached to the factory hinges.

You may weld trunk 6” on 6” off 3” X 1/4” strap max. This includes wagon tailgate.

And you may weld 2 pcs. Of ¾” all thread vertically to the rear frame rails and run them thru the trunk and lid. NO double nutting, you may use a 5” washer on the trunk lid bolts.

You may also place up to 24 3/8” bolts in the drip rail area of the trunk lid.

Must have a minimum 12” size hole in the trunk lid for inspection purpose.

The tail light panel must remain within 3” of OEM position.

HOODS:

NO hood handles

Hoods may be bolted, wired or chained shut only.

You may use 6 bolts to hold the hood 1”max.

The 2 front bolts may go thru the frame, Not welded to the frame. The other 4 must be sheet metal to sheet metal.

For the purpose of the 2 rear hood bolts, you may add a gusset from the engine firewall to the fender. 2” X 8”X ¼” thick. One on per side.

If you use chain or wire you may weld up to 5” washers to the hood. If bolting the 5” washers must be free floating.

Maximum of 3 hood cut outs allowed. Cutouts may be for header clearance, air cleaner or radiator fill opening.

You may install up to 16-3/8” bolts or self tapping screws for hood cutouts. Maximum 1” diameter washer size.

NO welding of hood cut outs allowed!

DOORS:

Doors may be welded solid 3” X ¼” strap max. You may also use rod to fill the gaps in place of strap, you may NOT do both.

You may smash the inner and outer door skin together and weld them solid, NO added metal.

If you do not weld your doors shut you must chain or #9 wire them closed in at least 2 spots. Doors may not be bolted shut.

Driver’s door may have window netting for driver’s safety. NO other windows may have netting.

You may weld a plate or tube Max. 6” X ¼” across the driver’s door for protection, not to exceed 6” beyond the front door seams. NO GRADER BLADES. These plates must be in center of the door and run horizontally.

WINDOWS:

You must have a minimum of 1 flat bar, chain or wire running from the roof to the cowl in the front windshield area for driver safety, Max 3” X ¼ inch thick.  If using a distributor protector, bars may be no closer than 7 inches from center of cowl and must be 14 inches apart.

You may use 2 loops, 4 strands of #9 wire total in 2 spots of each window opening. This may go to or around the frame.

Station wagons may not use wire in any window opening beyond the rear passenger door opening.

The wire must remain in the field of that window. They may not crisscross the interior of the car.  

Washers for #9 wires may be welded to the roof sheet metal, maximum of 1 ½” diameter.

OTHER BODY:

MINIMAL body creasing, enhancing of existing body lines and addition of body lines will be allowed. Folding the body metal over to create a double effect is NOT allowed.

NO doubling of body panels or added metal allowed.

Seam welding of the Front Clip area allowed. From firewall forward Body to Body, NOT to frame. Plastic fender wells must be removed.

Quarter panels must remain within 3” of OEM position.

Floor sheet metal may be patched where components will be mounted or for drivers safety, Sheet metal ONLY. NO other sheet metal patching is allowed unless it is a safety issue. If not sure call first.

Holes may be cut in the floor & firewall to accommodate the shifter, fuel lines and transmission lines.

You may cut a hole in firewall to accommodate engine within reason.

You may have up to 10 3/8” bolts in each wheel opening. They may not be higher than 5” above the stock lip location of the wheel opening.

ENGINES, TRANSMISSION & REAR ENDS:

ENGINES:

Any motor may be used in any car but it must be mounted within 3” of original location.

You may chain the motor but you must use existing bolt hole.

You may weld in additional supports to the engine cradle area but they may not be attached to the frame rails at any point. This may only be for the purpose of holding the engine in place.

You may remove the aluminum engine crossmember from the newer Fords and replace it with an older Ford engine crossmember, must be placed back in the stock location. 1 pass of weld ¼” max and NO added metal, braces or gussets.

NO engine oil coolers allowed.

You must have an air cleaner over the carburetor at all times.

NO starting fluids allowed.

Distributor protectors allowed, must be attached to the engine or transmission only. The backside must be no wider than 12” and must NOT contact the cage. If you run one do not mount your dash bar closer than 5” from the middle of the dash. It may NOT be welded, bolted or connected to the body, hood or frame. Forward supports must be inside normally positioned headers and not extend past the water pump. Must start derby a min of 1 ½” from the firewall.

TRANSMISSION:

Transmission must be of passenger car origin. Transmission coolers may be used but they must be secured in such a way to prevent injury.

Metal or braided lines must be used, crimp on fittings recommended. NO low pressure or fuel line allowed.

Coolers must be secured in a container in the passenger compartment of the car.

REAR ENDS:

Rear end must be of passenger car origin, 5 lug max.

You may use any type of rear end (Ford, Mopar, GM, and Hybrid).

NO truck, 8 lug or truck floater rear ends.

You may tilt the rear end by lengthening or shortening the trailing arm. Trailing arms must be of passenger car origin and must operate. Trailing arms may be reinforced but must be OEM origin.

Rear end braces are allowed.

Brake backing plates must be OEM, NO reinforcement.

You may convert a Watts link Ford to a Standard GM rear end in the following way. Use the trailing arm brackets off an older Ford or metal of the same size and thickness. NO shortening of the trailing arms, NO positioning of the brackets to strengthen the front downleg of the rear hump. You may cut the coil spring frame tray from an earlier year Ford and weld it in the newer Ford. One pass ¼” max weld. NO stronger than stock.

BODY BOLTS:

Any body bolt may be replaced with up to ¾” bolts. Maximum 8” long.

Core support bolts may be 1” diameter. Core support bolts may go thru the hood and count as 2 of your 6 hood supports.

You may use pipe up to 1 ½” OD X 4” to run the core support all thread thru. These pipes may be welded to the core support using 3/16” strapping, Two 4” pcs. Max per pipe.

Washers must be free floating inside the car and INSIDE the frame on the bottom side.

Do NOT weld the body washers to the floor. Maximum washer size is 5” diameter X 3/16” thick.

Rubber body mounts may be removed but must be replaced with ¾” thick X 3” max spacer.  Body may NOT be welded to the frame or sub-frame, Must maintain 3/4” space between body and frame.  

You may add 2 body mounts in the position of your choice. They must be painted an additional color for easy viewing.

If your station wagon came with the body bolts in the humps, these will be considered your 2 additional mounts. You may NOT add any more.

If you decide to bolt your coil springs in place thru the frame and the rear package tray, these will count as your added mounts.

Chrysler products may run a 1” all thread behind the radiator support but must drill a hole in the frame to bolt the all thread. Do NOT weld these to the frame.

RADIATORS, RADIATOR SUPPORTS:

Radiator must be in the stock position in the front of the motor.

Radiator support must remain in the stock location.

OEM style radiators only, NO home made tube construction radiators.

NO added cooling capacity or supplemental cooling devices allowed.

FUEL, FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEMS:

NO plastic gas tanks allowed. Metal tanks or fuel cells only.

Only 10 gallon capacity tanks allowed

Original gas tank must be removed from the car.

You must mount the gas tank securely behind the driver’s seat, center to left and it must be covered.

Fuel lines must run inside the car NOT under the car along the frame.

Fuel lines must be secured to the floor and kept from pinch points.

Automotive pump gas only, NO ALCOHOL.

Electric fuel pumps are allowed. They must be covered and have an on/off switch near the steering wheel and be clearly marked in large letters.

All lines must be double clamped.

TIRES & BRAKES:

NO tires taller than 30”

NO split rims, studded tired, paddle tires (on drive wheels) or 100% steel wheels.

Valve stem protectors allowed. Wheel weights must be removed.

Double or foam filled tires allowed.

All cars must be able to demonstrate the ability to stop at any time. If your brakes do not work, you will not compete.

BATTERIES:

A maximum of Two 12 volt batteries may be used.

They must be secured inside the car in the front passenger seat and covered.

FRAMES:

Top side frame seam can be welded from the control arms forward, max ½” wide bead.

Frame seams from the control arms back may have a MAX of 12 inches of weld, MAX ½” wide bead. Does not have to be continues. This includes the tilting welding.

Bumper strap to frame welding is covered in the bumper section.

NO other frame welding is allowed. No plating, stuffing, heat treating or foam filling of frames is allowed. DO NOT paint or undercoat your frame you will not even be inspected.

You may weld your motor mounts to the motor cradle. Aftermarket motor mounts allowed.

Rear frame rails may not be shortened. NO dowel pinning of the frame is allowed.  

You may notch the frame for minimal pre-bending but do NOT weld the cut.

On previous run cars you can have four 4”X10”X 3/16” thick patches. They have to be used in places that have been broken or cracked NOT just to strengthen the frame. Judges decision is final.

You may run a chain, cable or #9 wire from rear frame rail to rear frame rail behind the rear humps. 3/8” chain or cable max.

You may chain or wire your axle to the frame hump. NO strapping of any kind is allowed for this. Wire or chain only, 3/8” chain. May use one ½” bolt per side thru the frame for this.      Two standard size ½ “washers max each side, No welding.

You may NOT weld the chain links to create a bar effect.

You may TILT or PITCH the front frame. NO added metal or gussets allowed. Remember your 12 inches of frame seam weld includes this process.

 You may use a 5” long piece of angle welded to the frame to set the cross member on if you like, can be no closer to crush box than stock location.

BUMPERS, BUMPER BRACKETS:

Bumpers are interchangeable. Any automotive bumper or bracket may be used on any car.

You may weld the bumper seams, the shocks and weld the brackets to the frame. You may NOT weld further than 4” behind the radiator support when mounting your front bumper brackets on any car.

If you choose not to use brackets you may weld the bumper directly to the frame.

You may weld the outer chrome skin to the bumper inner frame.

You may NOT weld the bumper to the body at any time.

Bumpers may be cut to keep them out of the tires.

Bumpers may be flipped upside down.

Compression bumper shocks may be drained, slid back and welded solid.

All bumper brackets and shock components must be OEM automotive materials.

You may run 4 loops of #9 wire from the radiator support to the bumper in 2 locations.

You may weld a 4” X 12” X ¼” strap from the bumper to the frame to help keep the bumper on the car. This must remain in one piece, and may be welded on the top; bottom or side of the frame but it cannot be angled to the corner of the bumper to form a kicker. 12” is the maximum length.

80’s and newer style bumpers may be reinforced. Reinforcement must be contained within the original bumper and skin. Reinforcement may be no wider than the frame rails.

No bumper may have more than 12 inches from the back side mounting area to the front side point.

Old Iron bumpers may NOT be reinforced.

Bumper height is minimum of 16” to the bottom of the bumper. Bumper heights is maximum 22” to the bottom of the bumper.

SUSPENSION SPRINGS:

NO coil to leaf conversions.

Leaf springs must be in factory position.

You may change coil springs.

Any OEM suspension part may be used on any car as long as it bolts to the UNALTERED original OEM frame mount.

You may NOT remove the shocks and put pipe or all thread in their place.

Air shock lines must be cut.

NO means other than tires and coil spring spacers may be used to raise the cars suspension.

Both ends of the car must have a working suspension and bounce.

If you chain your humps, you must have enough slack for the suspension to work.

NO solid suspensions allowed.

You may reinforce your tie rods, but you must start with an OEM tie rod. Inspector must be able to see the rod ends and the adjusting threads.

NO pipe and heim end tie rods.

Steering wheel to steering gearbox may be modified.

After market steering columns allowed. 

LEAF SPRINGS:

9 leaf maximum, 5/16” max thickness, 2 ½” wide maximum.

58” minimum, 60” maximum spring length.

Stagger- 3” long side (rear of axel), 2” short side (front of axel).

5 clamps per spring, 2 front of axel, 3 behind the axel.

Clamp material ¼” thick, 2” wide and 2-5/16” bolts per clamp.

U-bolts – 7/16 maximum, stock mounting plates must be used.

NO home made mounting plates or oversized U-bolts will be allowed.

NO welding on the spring pack.

NO flat sprung cars, leaf pack must have a minimum of 2” of arch.

NO duct taping of springs prior to inspection.

INSPECTION PROCEDURES:

You will be given (1) opportunity to correct items on your car.

Each car gets a maximum of 2 times thru inspection.

Cars will be impounded after inspection and staged in a secure location.

You must be completely ready to bolt hood down after inspection and put your car in staging.

NO further work will be allowed and cars will NOT be allowed to go back to their trailers.

Do NOT come to the inspection if you are not done preparing your car.

PRE-FEATURE-CONSOLATION CAR PREP:

You may add unlimited #9 to your car prior to consi or feature.

Leaf springs may NOT be replaced but you may wire or taped before consi or feature.

NO replacing of sheet metal components prior to consi or feature.

NO added metal to frame any place prior to consi or feature.